tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-19717641696779070592024-03-19T06:53:47.556-04:00Jon Don't Do It!Jon Whttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18020949894713366313noreply@blogger.comBlogger11125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1971764169677907059.post-82395468602004518612016-11-06T12:06:00.001-05:002017-04-05T13:12:33.615-04:00Strobulon! The LED helmetJust in time for Halloween! ...2017.<br />
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This idea started for a work Halloween costume party a few years ago – I was working in retail distribution centres and we decided it would be fun to dress up as superheroes based on the common devices we worked with. There was Horn Man, Prox (as in proximity sensor) Girl, Captain Carton, and more. I claimed the lowly strobe lamp, and decided to go the evil nemesis route by creating the character Strobulon.<br />
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A simple concept: a big helmet that acted as a strobe light, and a voice changer to sound extra evil. Naturally, I took it a little too far.<br />
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<h3>
Phase 1: Design</h3>
I had worked with hand-built LED matrixes before, and so I naturally gravitated to that solution. I just needed some bright yellow LEDs to wrap around some sort of helmet, and it was a plus that I could reuse the somewhat expensive LED controller chips I had lying around from an old project. For the voice changer, I decided to be lazy, and just hack apart an off the shelf toy. To control it all, I thought I'd finally take my Raspberry Pi for a spin doing real hardware work.<br />
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<h4>
Shopping list:</h4>
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<ul>
<li>300x Super Bright Yellow LEDs for the helmet [<a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9982" target="_blank">SparkFun</a>]</li>
<li>25x Super Bright Red LEDs for the eyes/features [<a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9660" target="_blank">SparkFun</a>]</li>
<li>5x LED Display Drivers [<a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9622" target="_blank">SparkFun</a>]</li>
<li>200 feet of thin 30AWG yellow wire (to blend) [<a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/8029" target="_blank">SparkFun</a>] [<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GWFE7A6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1" target="_blank">Amazon</a>]</li>
<li>Voice Changer [<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FK3WDC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1" target="_blank">Amazon</a>]</li>
<li>Helmet! After much humming and hawing I went with the classic bucket [<a href="http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm/Indoor-Living/Home-Commercial-Cleaning/Floor-Care/Pails/Plastic/10-5L-Yellow-Utility-Pail/_/N-1z141v9/R-I4544381" target="_blank">Home Hardware</a>]<br />Yes, I put the bucket over my head in the store to make sure it fit. No regrets.</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi or Arduino</li>
<li>Power Source (I went with a USB power bank I already owned)</li>
</ul>
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<h4>
Tools:</h4>
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<ul>
<li>Soldering iron – I eventually wound up buying a cordless unit, as my desktop iron was hard to work with in a confined space [<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPUA28/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1" target="_blank">Amazon</a>]</li>
<li>Drill with 3/16" bit</li>
<li>Extreme patience and tolerance for pain (mental and physical)</li>
</ul>
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Here's the schematic I put together which breaks out the LED driver:<br />
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<h3>
Phase 2: Physical Development</h3>
To keep things interesting, I'm going to breeze through the careful planning I did here. If anyone is actually crazy enough to embark down the path of building something like this, let me know, and I will point you toward some great therapists.<br />
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I decided to space my LEDs about an inch apart. Because of course, the bucket I purchased wasn't a perfect cylinder, but gradually tapered. So, I maintained a consistent vertical 1" spacing, but had to carefully adjust the horizontal spacing to accommodate for a changing bucket diameter.<br />
After I had marked a grid of dots, and roughed out spaces for eyes and mouth, I proceeded to notch each mark with a push-pin. The idea was to ensure the drill bit wouldn't slip when punching the hole. While manually pushing a pin and then drilling a hole… 307 times isn't exactly fun, it paid off. No mistakes were made!<br />
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The 3/16" bit was perfect for this situation. It's just a teensy bit smaller than the diameter of a standard LED, and therefore I could push the LED through and it would firmly stay put without the need for glue. That said, my fingers were incredibly sore from pushing that many LEDs through tight spaces.<br />
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It's starting to come together!<br />
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The LEDs are linked together by row/column, and so with some clever bending and taping, I was able to use the exiting leads to tie all the lights together into a grid. Just 614 solder joins in an afternoon, no big deal.<br />
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Once the LEDs were in, they needed to be connected up to the drivers. I decided to try a PCB printing service (http://dirtypcbs.com/) to make the breakouts and make my life a little easier.<br />
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Here's the board layout (pre-ground-fill)<br />
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I was pretty happy with the end result!<br />
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<i>Note that I used some of the board real-estate to make a relay breakout too.</i></div>
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The super-observant will notice that the helmet is 9 LEDs tall, and 32 LEDs around. This meant that I had 4 nice 8x8 matrixes to work with, and a weirdo configuration managing the bottom row of LEDs as well at the LEDs used in the eyes. Each row and column of each matrix had to be wired up to the breakout board. So much soldering.<br />
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<b>Pro-tip:</b> while you can use all the same coloured wire for a job like this… if you have access to multiple colours of wire you can likely save yourself some headache. The photo above actually has some bad wiring on the eye LEDs, and it was quite the pain to figure out how to rewire it properly without tearing it all apart.<br />
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A test of my wiring (and an attempt at a morale booster) as it was coming along:<br />
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Next, I integrated the voice changer fairly simply – took the toy apart and rewired it to connect to new Super Bright Red LEDs for the mouth, glued the microphone on the inside closer to where my mouth would be, and stuck the speaker and control board up top with the rest of the hardware.<br />
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Finally, once all the inside wiring was done, I cut a cardboard insert to wrap around the inside, and tied the internal strapping of one of my hardhats to the top (or… bottom) of the bucket to keep it all in place on my skull.<br />
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It ain't pretty, but it's what's on the outside that counts!<br />
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<h3>
Phase 3: Software Development</h3>
I started this project with the idea of using my Raspberry Pi to talk to all the LED drivers, and also play with some audio processing to, say, have the lights react to music, and maybe even find a way to roughly display video (though that has limits when using single-coloured LEDs). Unfortunately, once I reached the point where I could start programming (the weekend before the party), my Raspberry Pi started randomly crashing and being generally unreliable. So, I fell back to the tried and true Arduino platform, and decided I was OK with limiting my project scope to just controlling LEDs with pre-defined patterns.<br />
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All wired up:<br />
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The Arduino IDE has a ready-made <a href="http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/LedControl" target="_blank">LedControl library</a> for these chips which saves a ton of time. Using this, I really only needed to focus on coming up with cool patterns to play through! You'll notice I segregated that weird fifth LED driver to a separate bus for clarity.<br />
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<h4>
The Code</h4>
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<h3>
Phase 4: Final Touches</h3>
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As you can see in a lot of the photos, the LEDs that are directly aligned with the camera are super-duper bright, while the rest aren't so much. Unfortunately, the LEDs I used have a bit of a narrower viewing angle. To remedy this, and to snazz things up a bit, I got a sheet of thin acrylic plastic to wrap around the helmet and diffuse the light.</div>
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I read online that in order to effectively bend acrylic, you need to heat it to around 300 degrees Fahrenheit. Initially I tried using my heat gun, and found that I couldn't get the plastic to warp at all. So, I tried it in the oven (as was suggested at the plastic store and online).</div>
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As you can see here, it worked great! I rolled a perfect cylinder:</div>
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Sadly I only bought one sheet of plastic, and anyway, the plastic was the least opaque they sold (before clear) and it still was too opaque. I'll try this experiment out again some time later, as I think it will really clean things up nicely.</div>
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<h3>
Phase 5: Showboating</h3>
That's "all there is to it"! Now begins a new era of glamourous living.<br />
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Posing by a dumpster:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyJUMo4zLd1Ryl3ltXMF_O2WsfdmbLIAhuRlppyDrxvOEobRYIZygmPoi99GxGwvgZV4PvcGr078KC9tChyJtPJ3HRhcSWu2QdqQ9rY9aajO8uF6rAXD6W3dnt8mI4GD-56t4mSjWKi38/s1600/IMG_0305.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyJUMo4zLd1Ryl3ltXMF_O2WsfdmbLIAhuRlppyDrxvOEobRYIZygmPoi99GxGwvgZV4PvcGr078KC9tChyJtPJ3HRhcSWu2QdqQ9rY9aajO8uF6rAXD6W3dnt8mI4GD-56t4mSjWKi38/s320/IMG_0305.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/yJdjoXLOF00/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/yJdjoXLOF00?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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Maybe for my next costume party I should just go as a ghost... but I'm pretty happy with how this worked out!<br />
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Jon Whttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18020949894713366313noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1971764169677907059.post-39360282717125535462016-05-28T11:50:00.000-04:002016-05-28T11:53:04.000-04:002010 Nissan Versa Stereo WiringMy fiancé has a base model Nissan Versa, and she spends a lot of time on the road with it for work. I wanted to give her the gift of hands-free calling too. I am not a fan of the user interface on my own Sony receiver, so I decided to mix it up a little. Here's what I bought:<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.pioneerelectronics.ca/POCEN/Car/CD-Receivers/FH-X721BT" target="_blank">Pioneer Bluetooth Receiver with Android/iPhone/iPod Control, Front USB & Aux (FH-X721BT)</a> [<a href="http://www.bestbuy.ca/en-CA/product/pioneer-pioneer-bluetooth-receiver-with-android-iphone-ipod-control-front-usb-aux-fh-x721bt-fh-x721bt/10322937.aspx" target="_blank">BestBuy</a>]</li>
<li><a href="http://www.metraonline.com/part/70-7552" target="_blank">Metra Stereo Cable Harness (70-7552)</a> [<a href="https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000VXED54/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1" target="_blank">Amazon</a>]</li>
<li><a href="http://www.metraonline.com/part/40-NI12" target="_blank">Metra Radio Antenna Adapter (40-NI12)</a> [<a href="https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000PANZ7U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1" target="_blank">Amazon</a>]</li>
</ul>
<br />
This car doesn't have a standard barrel-style antenna connector, so you need an adapter. You will notice the antenna adapter cable also has a fun blue wire of ambiguous purpose. It's actually super important - it's used to turn on the car's antenna amplifier. Apparently without it you will get garbage reception.<br />
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The other note is that the harness wasn't a perfect pin-match for the cabling. I took out the thicker brown wire on the one side (as it wasn't going to connect to anything in the car) and I moved/re-purposed the useless blue/white wire on the harness (antenna amp trigger - which in this situation is provided by the antenna adapter) to be the ground wire (black wire from the car, which had no wire connected on the harness. I could have just grounded the stereo on the chassis, but I discovered this dashboard has a ton of plastic, and not a lot of reachable chassis connections.<br />
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<div>
The receiver comes with it's own cable, and you can either choose to snip off the existing connector in the car, or you can buy a car-specific cable harness. I decided I really did not want to jam my hands into the dashboard, stripping and soldering cables in a confined space. I also liked the idea of being able to swap the stock stereo back in later. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Some <a href="http://www.modifiedlife.com/2010-nissan-versa-car-stereo-install-diagram/" target="_blank">investigation online</a>, followed by careful testing, yielded the following wire mapping:</div>
<h1 class="din" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 24px; line-height: 22px; margin: 10px 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<cufon alt="95-7320" class="cufon cufon-canvas" style="display: inline-block !important; font-size: 1px !important; height: 24px; line-height: 1px !important; position: relative !important; vertical-align: middle !important; width: 89px;"><cufon alt="No. " class="cufon cufon-canvas" style="display: inline-block !important; height: 24px; position: relative !important; vertical-align: middle !important; width: 44px;"><cufontext style="display: inline-block !important; height: 0px !important; overflow: hidden !important; text-indent: -10000in !important; width: 0px !important;"></cufontext></cufon><cufon alt="95-7320" class="cufon cufon-canvas" style="display: inline-block !important; height: 24px; position: relative !important; vertical-align: middle !important; width: 89px;"><canvas height="25" style="height: 25px; left: 0px; position: relative !important; top: 0px; width: 101px;" width="101"></canvas><cufontext style="display: inline-block !important; height: 0px !important; overflow: hidden !important; text-indent: -10000in !important; width: 0px !important;"></cufontext></cufon></cufon></h1>
<table><tbody>
<tr><th><div style="text-align: left;">
Connection</div>
</th><th><div style="text-align: left;">
Car</div>
</th><th><div style="text-align: left;">
Harness</div>
</th><th><div style="text-align: left;">
Receiver</div>
</th></tr>
<tr><td>Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire</td><td>Brown</td><td>Yellow</td><td>Yellow</td></tr>
<tr><td>Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire</td><td>Light Green</td><td>Red</td><td>Red</td></tr>
<tr><td>Car Radio Ground Wire</td><td>Black</td><td>Blue/White (Repurposed)</td><td>Black</td></tr>
<tr><td>Car Radio Illumination Wire</td><td>Orange</td><td>Orange</td><td>Orange/White</td></tr>
<tr><td>Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+)</td><td>White</td><td>White</td><td>White</td></tr>
<tr><td>Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-)</td><td>Brown</td><td>White/Black</td><td>White/Black</td></tr>
<tr><td>Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+)</td><td>Green</td><td>Grey</td><td>Grey</td></tr>
<tr><td>Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-)</td><td>Light Blue</td><td>Grey/Black</td><td>Grey/Black</td></tr>
<tr><td>Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+)</td><td>Violet</td><td>Green</td><td>Green</td></tr>
<tr><td>Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-)</td><td>Red</td><td>Green/Black</td><td>Green/Black</td></tr>
<tr><td>Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+)</td><td>Light Green</td><td>Violet</td><td>Violet</td></tr>
<tr><td>Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-)</td><td>Gray</td><td>Violet/Black</td><td>Violet/Black</td></tr>
<tr><td>Antenna Amp</td><td></td><td>Blue</td><td>Blue/White</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div>
</div>
<div>
It is super easy to access the stereo in the Versa (compared to my Sonata). It's also way easier to find instructions!<br />
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Here are some photos I grabbed to verify the wire mapping<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkY9twzcSjy8oPr8nLEDh4Wn_5F9t1ykw44FLKA4sLcCeyXZpy7qdvEehmNmN5ezyOpHyfONk-X4Gtv-Rlzg5aZ48w4cMpQqNMpf-dbGtZFjIdryHj4GzX4QLvK0R0wcRRRphWe60KzDs/s1600/IMG_3260.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkY9twzcSjy8oPr8nLEDh4Wn_5F9t1ykw44FLKA4sLcCeyXZpy7qdvEehmNmN5ezyOpHyfONk-X4Gtv-Rlzg5aZ48w4cMpQqNMpf-dbGtZFjIdryHj4GzX4QLvK0R0wcRRRphWe60KzDs/s320/IMG_3260.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjvb26JX2y-XBj_w3Wdh3mV-LGSb41x40ujWwOurOvR9_d_KwoAlTVHVZKXVrDsYewlQu4L3bOgX9wQt6cqlV-PYtXQlozN2MwkZaGFDx-HOZmyyOF6ge_ZiOMTuQBzHC_CFH_Ruya3Ho/s1600/IMG_3265.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjvb26JX2y-XBj_w3Wdh3mV-LGSb41x40ujWwOurOvR9_d_KwoAlTVHVZKXVrDsYewlQu4L3bOgX9wQt6cqlV-PYtXQlozN2MwkZaGFDx-HOZmyyOF6ge_ZiOMTuQBzHC_CFH_Ruya3Ho/s320/IMG_3265.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIWI6qbVtAXmDGVG6qO-NFm_llNpz_37-hJ1DCEcU2WDk4YW2HHVfQceL-U4p_P5WdFfh5gJko0CcfawhubdUuEUQSOdzAMsIx8TXKI0VrEneGZ7gH1hYDrG-GfTvyO-zNzf09AwwVg-g/s1600/IMG_3261.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIWI6qbVtAXmDGVG6qO-NFm_llNpz_37-hJ1DCEcU2WDk4YW2HHVfQceL-U4p_P5WdFfh5gJko0CcfawhubdUuEUQSOdzAMsIx8TXKI0VrEneGZ7gH1hYDrG-GfTvyO-zNzf09AwwVg-g/s320/IMG_3261.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Testing out the wire-mapping<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpJDme4_CmAOHiXbDDyRyhqQhCAaJjdu434SCrdt4VBo31V65HZU4oo5h8ZI8_GzAfwB3qmDulTPKUNIGOXd9_K7jjSi9Dbqopt05HrOQo9YoTmDWyDY2xeAwG0MIoPT7GZKyYr79BZt0/s1600/IMG_3285.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpJDme4_CmAOHiXbDDyRyhqQhCAaJjdu434SCrdt4VBo31V65HZU4oo5h8ZI8_GzAfwB3qmDulTPKUNIGOXd9_K7jjSi9Dbqopt05HrOQo9YoTmDWyDY2xeAwG0MIoPT7GZKyYr79BZt0/s320/IMG_3285.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
I immediately noticed the sound was <i>phenomenally</i> better with this unit. The stock stereo must not be very good (I noticed a bit of an improvement with my stereo upgrade, but nothing like this).<br />
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To test that you have the right speakers wired, you can just start playing the radio, and in the stereo settings play with the fader and balance to force sound to the front/rear and left/right.<br />
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My final cable<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfbgkzydU9dmrgtBNwUIPWFA_Say9QXqqGdXm304ZrZ1DkL7gAj-OpCy7Y3O6g8VlBY40_p8E7jLdJ-RFoJmXQ_lvLDNoROBeH86vxTWZcm_60wtF6nMsQfVYn1gKr9qLdLJD4XbO0ZgQ/s1600/IMG_3293.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="92" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfbgkzydU9dmrgtBNwUIPWFA_Say9QXqqGdXm304ZrZ1DkL7gAj-OpCy7Y3O6g8VlBY40_p8E7jLdJ-RFoJmXQ_lvLDNoROBeH86vxTWZcm_60wtF6nMsQfVYn1gKr9qLdLJD4XbO0ZgQ/s320/IMG_3293.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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All done!</div>
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<div>
Hope this is useful to someone out there!</div>
Jon Whttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18020949894713366313noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1971764169677907059.post-47472748886378108502016-04-12T13:04:00.000-04:002017-04-05T13:10:15.105-04:002007 Hyundai Sonata Stereo WiringThis is a fast follow-up to my original post, <a href="http://jondontdoit.blogspot.ca/2011/11/2007-hyundai-sonata-aux-input.html" target="_blank">2007 Hyundai Sonata Aux Input</a>. I saved up all my allowance money (i.e. I wasn't between jobs) and purchased a new stereo unit with Bluetooth so I could make and accept calls more safely on the road.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8iDwRe1QHH9ApD6mqqMSqOU8y6Gx_vl07ZVlaBk2hTq8HIN2c3evdbQ6kii9FAFuM0zg2jYjdjMCpDbzOfDdbG3nHbsi_Hz8vrIW3Fk09O3JA5CUaaS6_CwhxKUocoSOyjiX7IGTMoYQ/s1600/IMG_3296.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8iDwRe1QHH9ApD6mqqMSqOU8y6Gx_vl07ZVlaBk2hTq8HIN2c3evdbQ6kii9FAFuM0zg2jYjdjMCpDbzOfDdbG3nHbsi_Hz8vrIW3Fk09O3JA5CUaaS6_CwhxKUocoSOyjiX7IGTMoYQ/s320/IMG_3296.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Here's everything I bought to make this happen:<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.sony.ca/en/electronics/in-car-receivers-players/wx-gt90bt" target="_blank">Sony Bluetooth Receiver with Android/iPhone/iPod Control, Front USB & Aux (WXGT90BT)</a> [<a href="http://www.bestbuy.ca/en-CA/product/sony-sony-bluetooth-receiver-with-android-iphone-ipod-control-front-usb-aux-wxgt90bt-wxgt90bt/10241653.aspx" target="_blank">BestBuy</a>]</li>
<li><a href="http://www.metraonline.com/part/95-7320" target="_blank">Metra Dashboard Adapter (95-7320)</a> [<a href="https://www.amazon.ca/Metra-95-7320-Installation-2006-2008-Hyundai/dp/B001E70K08/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1460325594&sr=1-1" target="_blank">Amazon</a>]</li>
<li><a href="http://www.metraonline.com/part/70-5520" target="_blank">Metra Stereo Cable Harness (70-5520)</a> [<a href="https://www.amazon.ca/Metra-70-5520-Wiring-Harness-Speaker/dp/B0007WTF34/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1460325622&sr=1-1&keywords=70-5520" target="_blank">Amazon</a>]</li>
</ul>
<div>
<br />
I was initially wary of the dashboard adapter being black, when the rest was clearly... not black. Now I don't even notice. It's not perfect but I have no regrets.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The receiver comes with it's own cable, and you can either choose to snip off the existing connector in the car, or you can buy a car-specific cable harness. I decided I really did not want to jam my hands into the dashboard, stripping and soldering cables in a confined space. I also liked the idea of being able to swap the stock stereo back in later. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Some <a href="http://www.modifiedlife.com/2007-hyundai-sonata-car-radio-stereo-wiring-diagram/" target="_blank">investigation online</a>, followed by careful testing, yielded the following wire mapping:</div>
<h1 class="din" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 24px; line-height: 22px; margin: 10px 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<cufon alt="95-7320" class="cufon cufon-canvas" style="display: inline-block !important; font-size: 1px !important; height: 24px; line-height: 1px !important; position: relative !important; vertical-align: middle !important; width: 89px;"><cufon alt="No. " class="cufon cufon-canvas" style="display: inline-block !important; height: 24px; position: relative !important; vertical-align: middle !important; width: 44px;"><cufontext style="display: inline-block !important; height: 0px !important; overflow: hidden !important; text-indent: -10000in !important; width: 0px !important;"></cufontext></cufon><cufon alt="95-7320" class="cufon cufon-canvas" style="display: inline-block !important; height: 24px; position: relative !important; vertical-align: middle !important; width: 89px;"><canvas height="25" style="height: 25px; left: 0px; position: relative !important; top: 0px; width: 101px;" width="101"></canvas><cufontext style="display: inline-block !important; height: 0px !important; overflow: hidden !important; text-indent: -10000in !important; width: 0px !important;"></cufontext></cufon></cufon></h1>
<table>
<tbody>
<tr><th><div style="text-align: left;">
Connection</div>
</th><th><div style="text-align: left;">
Car</div>
</th><th><div style="text-align: left;">
Harness</div>
</th><th><div style="text-align: left;">
Receiver</div>
</th></tr>
<tr><td>Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire</td><td>Gray</td><td>Yellow</td><td>Yellow</td></tr>
<tr><td>Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire</td><td>Orange/Black</td><td>Red</td><td>Red</td></tr>
<tr><td>Car Radio Ground Wire</td><td>Black</td><td>Black</td><td>Black</td></tr>
<tr><td>Car Radio Illumination Wire</td><td>Blue</td><td>Orange/White</td><td>Orange/White</td></tr>
<tr><td>Car Stereo Dimmer Wire</td><td>White/Black</td><td>N/A</td><td>N/A</td></tr>
<tr><td>Car Stereo Antenna Trigger</td><td>Green/Black</td><td>Blue/White</td><td>Blue/White</td></tr>
<tr><td>Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire</td><td>Pink/Black</td><td>Blue/White</td><td>Blue/White</td></tr>
<tr><td>Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+)</td><td>Green</td><td>White</td><td>White</td></tr>
<tr><td>Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-)</td><td>Blue</td><td>White/Black</td><td>White/Black</td></tr>
<tr><td>Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+)</td><td>Gray</td><td>Grey</td><td>Grey</td></tr>
<tr><td>Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-)</td><td>Red/Orange</td><td>Grey/Black</td><td>Grey/Black</td></tr>
<tr><td>Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+)</td><td>Orange</td><td>Green</td><td>Green</td></tr>
<tr><td>Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-)</td><td>Pink</td><td>Green/Black</td><td>Green/Black</td></tr>
<tr><td>Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+)</td><td>White</td><td>Violet</td><td>Violet</td></tr>
<tr><td>Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-)</td><td>Red</td><td>Violet/Black</td><td>Violet/Black</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy_BMU84d47C0FELQH4HdhREaGAGrxrsy3_zFUm5MOu06CiQF5OaFWNd3FfLOPZV3NVQwOMiSycmcTG78owLJfOXLH549U-FKAZdas9AWcGsM0AWJSxKGECaw2pkwiRwH5KcBw4hiQeh8/s1600/CarStereoPlug.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="134" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy_BMU84d47C0FELQH4HdhREaGAGrxrsy3_zFUm5MOu06CiQF5OaFWNd3FfLOPZV3NVQwOMiSycmcTG78owLJfOXLH549U-FKAZdas9AWcGsM0AWJSxKGECaw2pkwiRwH5KcBw4hiQeh8/s320/CarStereoPlug.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I used some simple terminal blocks to test out my mapping before committing.<br />
<br /></div>
<div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj8DMEJCjc0EWh41gyXOcs1L9ZBn1bdCM9qmXAA-juaDUZo4jYY5U4pxa5l3DUv3Yz1wzUk9sOwde1GXryK5gmiVKSHSowavFay-n1TrlkQ8DiRI0oDzzbUZpyizW0p4ix3MdN4KdtiNU/s1600/IMG_20140404_131727.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="163" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj8DMEJCjc0EWh41gyXOcs1L9ZBn1bdCM9qmXAA-juaDUZo4jYY5U4pxa5l3DUv3Yz1wzUk9sOwde1GXryK5gmiVKSHSowavFay-n1TrlkQ8DiRI0oDzzbUZpyizW0p4ix3MdN4KdtiNU/s320/IMG_20140404_131727.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div>
<br />
Everything worked out, so I went ahead and starting burning myself.<br />
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<div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijyNjmbGk0jvJQrhFnOjcAGoQ_AoKZDFXyxkpRu-lAU2twaT6MBG5PnRjBFxnmt8MWzvtg-pBN2kFxle14HNvUTT5dU-7IF82Kx1fN2xIPZJwQvZUKWGkgQidqIoCQq1mb3_xvCuLpBOo/s1600/IMG_20140404_141750.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="96" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijyNjmbGk0jvJQrhFnOjcAGoQ_AoKZDFXyxkpRu-lAU2twaT6MBG5PnRjBFxnmt8MWzvtg-pBN2kFxle14HNvUTT5dU-7IF82Kx1fN2xIPZJwQvZUKWGkgQidqIoCQq1mb3_xvCuLpBOo/s320/IMG_20140404_141750.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9i-bOrmyJvJpFNuIzQA_ohO7SMbbF7D9TidAvRdUu-9KfCBhFBQagFMt8RSpGLNXypq2nLh0sJu5xRCAsWSd_bEXJIhSuQVTiUmCl6p_a0COi0HSmPfvrEm9YrsbAqwmB2cRf5-6qf3Y/s1600/IMG_20140404_141805.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="173" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9i-bOrmyJvJpFNuIzQA_ohO7SMbbF7D9TidAvRdUu-9KfCBhFBQagFMt8RSpGLNXypq2nLh0sJu5xRCAsWSd_bEXJIhSuQVTiUmCl6p_a0COi0HSmPfvrEm9YrsbAqwmB2cRf5-6qf3Y/s320/IMG_20140404_141805.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div>
<br />
<b>Update: </b>As one kind user pointed out, my original mapping did not connect the Antenna Trigger. This didn't cause noticeable issues with FM reception, but made the AM band useless. I reviewed the stereo wiring guide and added a jumper wire to connect the Antenna Trigger to the Amp Trigger lines and this resolved the issue totally. I notice slightly better FM reception, and now AM reception actually works!<br />
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I've been living the hands-free dream for a couple of years now with no troubles!</div>
Jon Whttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18020949894713366313noreply@blogger.com36tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1971764169677907059.post-27049466668479661122016-04-10T22:30:00.001-04:002016-04-10T22:41:04.123-04:00Why I switched to WIND, and then came right backI had been a content customer of one of the "Big 3" for well over a decade. I was grandfathered in on a $55 month-to-month contract with Fav 10 unlimited calling, unlimited texting, 300 minutes, and 1GB of data. It was enough. As my work responsibilities changed, however, I started feeling aggravated by the extra fees showing up on my bill each month. Conference call went long? Surprise! +$20 on your bill. Supporting a team member in the US over iMessage and suddenly all your messages switch to SMS? Surprise! +$15.<br />
<br />
Now, there are a lot of arguments that can be made here, starting with why I don't have a work phone... but that's not what this post is about. I wanted freedom. I wanted to not have to think about who I called or communicated with and how much extra that was costing me. I felt I was paying a fair amount for low-mid range services, and since I had been a loyal paying customer for so long, and hadn't given them lots of pressure for "free" stuff, I should be able to at least switch to unlimited Canada-wide calling and international texts.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><h4>
Turns out nope. </h4>
<br />
The customer loyalty rep actually laughed when they reviewed my profile, saying there was no way they were going to throw in any extras unless I started paying a minimum of $70 per month. I called back a couple of days later, expressed my dissatisfaction with how I was treated, and said I would be switching to WIND. I got "sorry to see you go. Have a nice day". Ouch.<br />
<br />
I live in downtown Toronto, and knew several people outside of town using WIND. I figured their service would be the "worst" and took their reviews as positive. I am not a heavy data user, so a slower network didn't worry me. I already used WIND data on my tablet, and always had service where I needed it. I did a lot of reading and came across great articles like <a href="http://alphabeatic.com/wind-mobile-switching/" target="_blank">this one</a>. I even read the author's own followup about <a href="http://mobilesyrup.com/2015/08/22/wind-mobile-joined-left/" target="_blank">switching back</a>. In short, I thought I knew what I was getting into, and it didn't seem like a bad deal.<br />
<br />
I bought an unlocked iPhone 6S Plus, both because I desperately needed an upgrade, and because I thought it would provide the best possible WIND experience. Maybe it did.<br />
<br />
<h4>
The switch was painless.</h4>
<br />
Customer service was friendly, and upfront about all their charges. I was even offered a discounted SIM card for coming over. I got on the promotional plan for $39/month with unlimited calling and texting, and 5GB of data. I was excited to enter a new chapter of mobile usage. One without limits.<br />
<br />
The first week went well. I could carry a call all the way from work in Oakville back to Toronto with no drops. Data was noticeably slower, but it didn't let me down. I had been using my phone mostly outside the Toronto core, and was about to realize how different things are downtown.<br />
<br />
Life is full of bumps, and in February my fiancé had some very major surgery at Toronto General Hospital. It was scheduled (as a follow-up to an unscheduled near-death event from the previous year) and another part of the reason I switched to WIND was to be able to use my phone to distract myself a little from all the stress. In the end, all I did was bundle on a ton of frustration.<br />
<br />
<h4>
My phone flat-out didn't work. </h4>
<br />
I had full bars most of the time, but nothing worked. No internet, no calls, no texts 90% of the time. The other 10% of the time I had incredibly poor call quality (people said I sounded like I was underwater, and suffering the vocal consequences of drowning), intermittent texts, and data so slow almost everything timed out. My experience is summarized like this:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhOFgz4TW1v8TcP_EYWOcZ14IoGOxDKrHqoIqqGXN3utnJ3dZUorW5-1hRm78BCWbAVH6-qiXMsJjZNG2xm1zZbYq1saVnpUHhEOaO51HBIB3QMccsg9Qr2B0wY9NZhZZXFfkQ4qLW_Ug/s1600/IMG_3186.PNG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhOFgz4TW1v8TcP_EYWOcZ14IoGOxDKrHqoIqqGXN3utnJ3dZUorW5-1hRm78BCWbAVH6-qiXMsJjZNG2xm1zZbYq1saVnpUHhEOaO51HBIB3QMccsg9Qr2B0wY9NZhZZXFfkQ4qLW_Ug/s400/IMG_3186.PNG" width="225" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
4/5 bars, but no network. I had to press my phone to a specific window in my condo for anything to come though, and to be able to carry out a short grunt-based phone call. On surgery day I was sitting beside a cold window at Toronto General and still couldn't get a damn thing from my phone.<br />
<br />
It's pretty upsetting to be unable to update your family on how a loved-one is recovering after a major surgery without leaving the hospital and wandering around in the cold until your phone starts buzzing like crazy with missed messages. Trying to schedule a family pickup and not being able to place the call while you're driving downtown makes you wonder why you're paying for a cell phone at all.<br />
<br />
Needless to say, this was not the "slightly reduced performance" I was expecting.<br />
<br />
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
I wanted to give WIND a chance to make it right</h4>
<br />
I used to work in the mobile world, but it still doesn't take an expert to deduce that it was congestion issues causing my phone to report good reception and provide no service. I called WIND and explained everything. They very kindly gave me a $20 credit for my troubles, and escalated the issue with their network team. I performed all the resets they asked for, even though I had already tried them a hundred times.<br />
<br />
I waited the 12-15 business days required for resolution, all while trying to work from home and care for my partner. You really don't know what you've got until it's gone, and when you don't have a landline or a working cell phone, it's amazing how fast you're willing to spend $80/month just to get it back. I think WIND tried to call me to give me an update, but of course, the call failed as soon as I picked up. I called them back from my car, a few blocks away from my building where I knew my phone worked, and got through to their network team.<br />
<br />
"You're not the only person experiencing network issues" was all they'd say to me after I refused to accept the vanilla statement of "we looked into it and everything should be working fine now." That's really too bad folks, but it doesn't change my situation. The only other interesting wisp of a notion I got out of them was that the antennas of the Big 3 are pumping out a ton of noise on WIND's spectrum in my neighbourhood. Makes you wonder if it's unintentional.<br />
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<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
The next morning I switched back</h4>
<br />
I went with a promo plan from a secondary carrier operating under one of the Big 3. For $60 a month I get unlimited Canada-wide calling, unlimited international texting (so long as I'm in Canada), and 2GB of data. I couldn't be happier. I feel like I got a new phone all over again. <i>Everything </i>feels faster.<br />
<br />
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
At the end of the day I like what WIND is doing</h4>
<br />
Their business plan is remarkable for Canada: they are showing the country how overpriced the Big 3 are, and have built their own network infrastructure to show they mean business. I don't think they're going anywhere, and if their service improves to the point of actually being usable, I think I'll switch back. If you have coverage outside Toronto and that's where you live and work, by all means consider them. I had perfectly acceptable service in Oakville, Barrie, and Kingston.<br />
<br />
This post is in no way trying to solicit or provide advice, nor is it trying promote negative opinions of any carrier. I wrote it with the sole intent of providing useful insight for anyone in my situation, or considering their options. Everyone's experiences are different, and while Canada has a very, very long way to go in terms of providing world-class wireless service and fair pricing, there are a lot of things being done well here.Jon Whttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18020949894713366313noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1971764169677907059.post-33019938963644336232012-08-20T19:52:00.000-04:002016-11-12T22:38:06.394-05:00Using a DS1077 Programmable Oscillator with ArduinoI bought a DS1077 Programmable Oscillator a while back for a project but only recently blew the dust off it to try to get it going. It had been a little while since I had talked to components through I2C and I had some trouble talking to it right away. In case anyone else is having trouble talking to it with an Arduino I thought I'd post my code to speed them along.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a>Just as a first point, I've never been 100% sure if I needed to use pull-up resistors with I2C on an Arduino, as most of the time I haven't needed them. This time though they seemed to make a difference. I used 4.7kohm resistors to pull up SDA and SCL.<br />
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Here's the code:<br />
<script src="https://gist.github.com/jondontdoit/7a8984d217bfe408029006995f0f1d88.js"></script>
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A bunch of credit goes to the post on Hack A Day as well as the post on Semyon Tushev's blog (links below). I should note that I didn't really spend much time with the registers as I only wanted to get 16.2kHz out of it (for now) so I won't be very knowledgeable about that stuff.<br />
<br />
<h2>
References</h2>
Parts: 133MHz-16.2kHz programmable oscillator (DS1077)<br />
<a href="http://www.hackaday.com/2008/11/28/parts-133mhz-162khz-programmable-oscillator-ds1077/">http://www.hackaday.com/2008/11/28/parts-133mhz-162khz-programmable-oscillator-ds1077/</a><br />
<br />
Measuring frequency with Arduino<br />
<a href="http://tushev.org/articles/electronics/43-measuring-frequency-with-arduino">http://tushev.org/articles/electronics/43-measuring-frequency-with-arduino</a><br />
<br />
DS1077 Programmable Oscillator Breakout - 16.2kHz to 133MHz<br />
<a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9116">https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9116</a><br />
<br />
Arduino Forum: Need for I2C pullup resistors<br />
<a href="http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1286192280">http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1286192280</a>Jon Whttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18020949894713366313noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1971764169677907059.post-83817597663391962822012-08-14T20:08:00.000-04:002012-08-14T20:08:16.300-04:00Wii Sensor Bar RepairCats are great. I love cats. I love my cat. But sometimes my cat needs to be sent to the glue mill because he does things that are annoying. It's the only way he'll learn. This is a simple pictorial guide that goes through the process of repairing a Wii Sensor bar after your beloved pets/siblings/partners have chewed through the tiny cable. Warning: soldering required!<br />
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<a name='more'></a>Step 1: Unscrew all 6 tiny screws across the bottom of the sensor bar. They turned out to be in there really good, so I had to use a pair of pliers to get some additional torque.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO2rTtfUFSuPRG5zsw3bQJBUZzQtDeq-JDbVjBbDwrPxX1XSD2UafAGdduQUVmx7OSrgZyfpRiy6-YRoWn_iyV5RFNivC8LPSBc7rZs5sb8IZr98GjYJXUynRuZ6JnCcGMaD2yvIMsbHY/s1600/IMG_0654.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO2rTtfUFSuPRG5zsw3bQJBUZzQtDeq-JDbVjBbDwrPxX1XSD2UafAGdduQUVmx7OSrgZyfpRiy6-YRoWn_iyV5RFNivC8LPSBc7rZs5sb8IZr98GjYJXUynRuZ6JnCcGMaD2yvIMsbHY/s320/IMG_0654.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA0fQiJ9bkzb5vzmXQ4hIhms9-G52tRIEaK1AWb5NntnW0XgAew6utULDO0BeoDHgSX6AXYiA9prCaLk7tDtC3Q9FhJp-G05-CRsKUOJzfdP5-T8T48AZM5JFguwHd6ikVfxoW25DOBJo/s1600/IMG_0655.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA0fQiJ9bkzb5vzmXQ4hIhms9-G52tRIEaK1AWb5NntnW0XgAew6utULDO0BeoDHgSX6AXYiA9prCaLk7tDtC3Q9FhJp-G05-CRsKUOJzfdP5-T8T48AZM5JFguwHd6ikVfxoW25DOBJo/s320/IMG_0655.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Step 2: Carefully separate the bottom piece of plastic from the rest of the bar. It lifts off really easily, no sneaky glue/hook surprises.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxLXRtWizUEQyFBw3ZQNek99FCnEIQ9Dp-pZda59naZGR2UcAtPIaXxewHnQqKstHFl6mVEYiLQ2Dw_3S3LBroKmw_KpucUr-cd83f5j_LiGQzor_CnYRDOxNCz_dn-o0j3Aaie6Ojk9w/s1600/IMG_0658.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxLXRtWizUEQyFBw3ZQNek99FCnEIQ9Dp-pZda59naZGR2UcAtPIaXxewHnQqKstHFl6mVEYiLQ2Dw_3S3LBroKmw_KpucUr-cd83f5j_LiGQzor_CnYRDOxNCz_dn-o0j3Aaie6Ojk9w/s320/IMG_0658.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Step 3: Take note of the wire colours here. If you forget, there's a 50/50 chance you'll mess up!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjacxzUovkeQ5AGODLEXoHEdlyElQWOPaYtmOoEuYxOkxBAZwc3Fd47Sd-Y5EqGifxrA5bPfQ5ZKqceFtDVvOKvJGUm9ReE2pVQkcSqG951qtLyQyqmp6ekluWCtsR_Yj2zmXOv_crGQ0/s1600/IMG_0660.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjacxzUovkeQ5AGODLEXoHEdlyElQWOPaYtmOoEuYxOkxBAZwc3Fd47Sd-Y5EqGifxrA5bPfQ5ZKqceFtDVvOKvJGUm9ReE2pVQkcSqG951qtLyQyqmp6ekluWCtsR_Yj2zmXOv_crGQ0/s320/IMG_0660.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Step 4: Cut the sensor bar wire after all the chewing is done. Strip it back carefully with a razor. Thankfully the wire is ridiculously long so there's plenty left over (good luck if it got chewed off near the plug!)<br />
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<br />Step 5: Just de-solder the old wire and re-solder this newly stripped end. Make sure you solder to the correct pads on the sensor bar circuit. Then put it all back together and plug it in!<br />
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Conclusion: This is really, really easy to do and shouldn't scare anyone who's tinkered with electronics. Also it seems as though the Wii sensor bar is literally just a bunch of Infra-Red LEDs. No communications at all.<br />
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Jon Whttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18020949894713366313noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1971764169677907059.post-1152427705205657012012-07-24T21:30:00.002-04:002012-07-24T21:34:02.733-04:00Turn On Devices with your TV<div class="MsoNormal">
Alright, there isn't really a fast way of explaining the
background to this project, so buckle up your patience belts and stay with me
for a paragraph or two. I'm using my old 5.1 surround sound PC speaker set with
my TV, hooked up through a PC I built for the purposes of playing media through
my NAS. I believe the youths call this a Home Theatre PC, but what do they
know. Everything was running fine, except for one major issue: when I turn on
my TV, the speakers don't turn on with it. The speaker set gets pretty hot after
a while, so I wasn't prepared to just always leave it on, and I certainly
wasn't about to get up every time I turned the TV on or off. No sir. So I set
to work to figure out another way.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<a name='more'></a><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
At first I was thinking of building an elaborate setup with
an Arduino and an IR receiver, to capture the TV remote's power signal and
trigger a relay connected to the plug of the speaker set. But this wouldn't do
because</div>
<ol>
<li>It was elaborate but too easy (setting up the Arduino would take an
hour, and would be a waste of a good microcontroller </li>
<li>The
microcontroller in the speakers resets every time the power dies, resetting the
volume to 0 and the bass to middle (which for my set, in an apartment, is a
ridiculous amount of bass).</li>
</ol>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The second issue is resolved easily enough: route wires from
the power switch inside the speaker controller dongle thingy and use a relay as a
parallel switch. The first issue is resolved with a personal challenge: no
microcontrollers.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
With this in mind, my next idea was to find a way to attach
flywires to the TV's power LED, which is only on when the TV is on... but that
would involve taking apart my new flatscreen TV, which just wasn't going to
happen. I thought about using a photoresistor placed in front of the LED, but
that gets ugly (aesthetically).</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Spotted the theme yet? I'm lazy and fussy. It's a winning
combo.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Then it dawned on me: my TV has two USB ports, one for
external storage, the other for ?? (wifi dongle I think, which I don't need).
After a quick test to double-check I confirmed things:</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
TV On = USB Power On (5V),</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
TV Off = USB Power Off (0V).</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Win.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So how does I gets TV make speakers go? Well, I tried making
guttural noises while waving my hands from the TV to the speaker dongle, but
that didn't seem to help. So I put on my braining hat and set to figuring out
how to make it happen.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The challenges were:</div>
<ul>
<li>I don't want there to be any chance of wrecking my TV's electronics</li>
<li>I don't want to use an external power source (ran out of plugs)</li>
<li>When the TV first comes on, the USB voltage flip-flops for a few seconds meaning a simple rising edge detector will turn the speakers on and off a bunch which is no good</li>
</ul>
<br />
Since I've already been pretty long-winded in this post, I'll save everyone the chatter about how I slowly figured out how to make this work, and cut straight to the schematic:<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmY8gezHMpk9mk-kK-yxqCYcdMEltspoWkd4hSqH6ehQvb-SyTNDtSGCPPzJtxAMDj_jv7HX6wVEQTPfkKiY1cLZDQohsYuPd0Wb68_Ng1oCx4s6DRa1qjJEfZLH29ia11xRgL9uadobo/s1600/Schematic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmY8gezHMpk9mk-kK-yxqCYcdMEltspoWkd4hSqH6ehQvb-SyTNDtSGCPPzJtxAMDj_jv7HX6wVEQTPfkKiY1cLZDQohsYuPd0Wb68_Ng1oCx4s6DRa1qjJEfZLH29ia11xRgL9uadobo/s640/Schematic.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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If we go from left to right: the TV's USB power lines come
in (through a stripped USB cable) and feed into an opto-isolator which,
surprisingly, isolates the TV signal from the rest of the circuit. Now, the
power signal gets fed into an XNOR gate which acts as an edge detector. How
does it do this? Well, simply put, in this case the capacitor acts as a buffer,
or a slowerer of things. So when the incoming signal goes from high-to-low or
low-to-high there is a momentary difference in the inputs at the two terminals
of the XNOR gate. This difference is big enough that momentarily the XNOR inputs see a logical 1 and 0, which triggers the gate.</div>
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<br /></div>
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When the XNOR gate turns on
it pulls the output low which triggers a 555 timer configured in monostable mode. What
that means is it will turn on for a set amount of time after being
triggered by an input pulse (inverted, so normally high, pulled low - this is
what the 555 timer needs, otherwise I'd use a regular XOR gate). While it's on,
it essentially ignores the input signal, which is perfect for dealing with the unwanted signal changes.</div>
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<br /></div>
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I configured the timer to last about 7 seconds, enough to
get past all the USB voltage flip-flopping as the TV turns on. The 555 timer
output is fed to a relay which is connected in parallel to the speaker's power
button. I also use the speaker's 5V supply to power the circuit, since it was
easy enough to do once I cracked the unit open. I put some links to the
websites and documents I used at the end of this post for reference.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Here's my speaker controller dongle thingy...</div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8ecjDi2bfwRgbOdgcFOG0BB7ZaLg4ldcRIo1jjjWJPj3i1h22rdAzsBHe9EvlFzBmw1H6a-gYIJTBs9nVUyvnxBBm15SaFmDh8iRmGjGJiyHkpLhv-WsjRb7jmhQRG94WvvkS7V-iK_8/s1600/IMG_0645.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8ecjDi2bfwRgbOdgcFOG0BB7ZaLg4ldcRIo1jjjWJPj3i1h22rdAzsBHe9EvlFzBmw1H6a-gYIJTBs9nVUyvnxBBm15SaFmDh8iRmGjGJiyHkpLhv-WsjRb7jmhQRG94WvvkS7V-iK_8/s320/IMG_0645.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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</div>
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And if you pull the little
rubber feet off the back you can easily take it apart.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjh8CPBeUm8ITQmO6cUS_vUZG_AZbiAjtq95T8kyxYISVZf7FjPM2ViNSw_4JoBPYkAu1K8JbIu5oZBYeTyGtbQAwjB-aJH5RwQLqmhzFde8ibBVrhokS6_225pp2yNp_tTYYNgicqR1w/s1600/IMG_0646.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjh8CPBeUm8ITQmO6cUS_vUZG_AZbiAjtq95T8kyxYISVZf7FjPM2ViNSw_4JoBPYkAu1K8JbIu5oZBYeTyGtbQAwjB-aJH5RwQLqmhzFde8ibBVrhokS6_225pp2yNp_tTYYNgicqR1w/s320/IMG_0646.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZZ-eQxp3XQn-6oGOWZsEWbmlIJMyhJK3ioNqQVlfxvRQJlTx5utAbrgigyeIrt_ZppcGmDq_HnvHa6g2P6bGOxsEDOXXOCaD5fD_Qs71coFVvq3l3iWMcmzcUlJotik3EGCvHq8nKstg/s1600/IMG_0648.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZZ-eQxp3XQn-6oGOWZsEWbmlIJMyhJK3ioNqQVlfxvRQJlTx5utAbrgigyeIrt_ZppcGmDq_HnvHa6g2P6bGOxsEDOXXOCaD5fD_Qs71coFVvq3l3iWMcmzcUlJotik3EGCvHq8nKstg/s320/IMG_0648.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The microcontroller is on the back of the circuit board, and
I used a multimeter and the microcontroller's datasheet to figure out what pins
were 5V, ground, and the power switch. I drilled a small hole next to where the
cable comes out to run these 3 new wires out to my circuit.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqcroooVXBQYUu-J0SIS6Y-rqbfjqbrpTSxNA9QTOxVNfJopj_KZZL_UnAl5t8yG-f62pptTZdHCDAc7JkiFvWCbmpmB_umPyWld_hf7o1ftg943rbPVqiLhFxkt7I-dG78XUeRhYXD04/s1600/IMG_0664.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqcroooVXBQYUu-J0SIS6Y-rqbfjqbrpTSxNA9QTOxVNfJopj_KZZL_UnAl5t8yG-f62pptTZdHCDAc7JkiFvWCbmpmB_umPyWld_hf7o1ftg943rbPVqiLhFxkt7I-dG78XUeRhYXD04/s320/IMG_0664.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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After a bit of testing with a regular 5V supply I was ready
to plug it all into the TV and speakers. It did the job perfectly!</div>
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<br /></div>
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About half a year later I finally decided to finish this
project off by soldering it all up and putting it in an enclosure.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjriHv67OfkxyMLnqxpqqfr6yoEVhYXmV2uClaI7QxhvLwfbbl_06BdUiDjGAHKy2dkmz3mDvapTIRxGzVSAIkbqKKPHmtm1_mLgDUh45xmyhtxqkMChWPV5o3qjEG5KZDVQuimL0N-1Jg/s1600/IMG_0750.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjriHv67OfkxyMLnqxpqqfr6yoEVhYXmV2uClaI7QxhvLwfbbl_06BdUiDjGAHKy2dkmz3mDvapTIRxGzVSAIkbqKKPHmtm1_mLgDUh45xmyhtxqkMChWPV5o3qjEG5KZDVQuimL0N-1Jg/s320/IMG_0750.JPG" width="290" /></a></div>
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<br />
It took 6 hours of work to make it look this tidy. Again, fussiness
for the win.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsnW09fJFNvyPpD2ES0fjSTRHp6-bEJoThYxxPTczSFSWPh5EcNQvdZcKGNbVSlHxCnhVOzy-Ygieut4UH-r5OsEDQ-827tODeOKfm-sQ5QRVppwOs-zMfRvADqMln3oEqs7DBv04NAFQ/s1600/IMG_0752.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsnW09fJFNvyPpD2ES0fjSTRHp6-bEJoThYxxPTczSFSWPh5EcNQvdZcKGNbVSlHxCnhVOzy-Ygieut4UH-r5OsEDQ-827tODeOKfm-sQ5QRVppwOs-zMfRvADqMln3oEqs7DBv04NAFQ/s320/IMG_0752.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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All closed up. Bigger than it needs to be, but still not
going to get in the way.</div>
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</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYRYUVq5ETdsz_KMfUYdMaw7R1lNYoMBd44ladrvvjp6e9Qn1_i0-U3ViBcuAAillcnindJi0EpH40TsF_rS2BlY-8Q8wWI4GHB0Q6vjjLgc0VmgnMbHAS3DHTESGs6i8ineRs8N1Tw2s/s1600/IMG_0753.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYRYUVq5ETdsz_KMfUYdMaw7R1lNYoMBd44ladrvvjp6e9Qn1_i0-U3ViBcuAAillcnindJi0EpH40TsF_rS2BlY-8Q8wWI4GHB0Q6vjjLgc0VmgnMbHAS3DHTESGs6i8ineRs8N1Tw2s/s320/IMG_0753.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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All done, and never to be seen again!</div>
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<br /></div>
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I'm really happy with the way this project worked out, as
it's proven to be a reliable circuit, and very convenient. Hopefully this post
will inspire others to control stuff using their TV and at the very least remind
us all that there's a complicated time consuming solution to every problem in
life, so long as that problem uses electricity.</div>
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<h2 class="MsoNormal" style="font-weight: normal;">
Links</h2>
<h3 class="MsoNormal" style="font-weight: normal;">
</h3>
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XNOR Gate:<br />
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XNOR_gate">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XNOR_gate</a></div>
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<br /></div>
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Edge Detector Circuits:<br />
<a href="http://sound.westhost.com/appnotes/an005.htm">http://sound.westhost.com/appnotes/an005.htm</a></div>
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<br /></div>
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555 Timer on Sparkfun (good for datasheet):<br />
<a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9273">http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9273</a></div>
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<br /></div>
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555 Timer Modes (for Monostable operation):<br />
<a href="http://www.555-timer-circuits.com/operating-modes.html">http://www.555-timer-circuits.com/operating-modes.html</a></div>
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<br /></div>
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Relay kit (I didn't use this kit, but it shows you what
parts you need and I used most of the same parts):<br />
<a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/11042">http://www.sparkfun.com/products/11042</a></div>
<br />Jon Whttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18020949894713366313noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1971764169677907059.post-51234913763377482032011-11-04T18:19:00.002-04:002016-11-12T22:27:05.576-05:00Feature Controlled EmailThe purpose of this project is a little hard to explain without some background information. My brother has an intellectual disability but loves computers. Trouble is, he's exceptionally skilled at finding settings panels and mucking around with everything until nothing works. Even with a guest account on Ubuntu, with all menu access to system settings removed, he still finds ways to make everything wonky. In another life he'd totally be that one guy who knows how to program every VCR. Anyways, our family is a little spread out, and as a result my brother doesn't get many opportunities to connect with everyone he loves. A few weeks ago, however, I realized that there is a way to give him e-mail access without dire consequences.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a>The main reason that we didn't set him up with an e-mail account in the past was because we knew that it would constantly need fixing, would have an overwhelming number of unnecessary features, and because there would be no way to limit who he could e-mail. The solution? Build a simple e-mail interface specifically to his needs.<br />
<br />
Thanks to PHP and Gmail's IMAP features, this wasn't too difficult. Gmail offers this service for free, and because of its excellent spam filtering it seemed a no-brainer to go with them. While I do offer my code at the end of this post, here's an outline of the initial steps I took, some screenshots, as well as the features I built in.<br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">Setting Things Up</span><br />
The hardest part of all of this was getting my hosting service to enable IMAP services with SSL over port 993. I kept getting a "connection timed out" error. It took a solid week to get things working, and when I asked them to describe what they finally did to get it working, all they said was "We have enabled the specific setting related to port." So good luck! If things don't work out of the box for you, all I can say is just be persistent with tech support.<br />
<br />
I followed <a href="http://davidwalsh.name/gmail-php-imap" target="_blank">this link</a> to test things out once I had set up a Gmail account for my brother and enabled IMAP service in the Gmail settings.<br />
<br />
Once everything was working, it didn't take long to get the interface set up.<br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">The Interface</span><br />
Here are some screen grabs of what I built. If the smudging out of every single piece of possibly personal information annoys you, too bad.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Inbox (Outbox looks the same)</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXH2obdwUvUn_MVv5b6gOlO53WZoKyTfArlaWJOeXGvbbzWeWk5pacK3sqNDHlVSTakXnA5YmNAqnaloNViMz3W3InsXI6UmQFgiYetunONTic4WzhU6DNIdb3bYSEsx9dqwSgQc7jjg0/s1600/inbox.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXH2obdwUvUn_MVv5b6gOlO53WZoKyTfArlaWJOeXGvbbzWeWk5pacK3sqNDHlVSTakXnA5YmNAqnaloNViMz3W3InsXI6UmQFgiYetunONTic4WzhU6DNIdb3bYSEsx9dqwSgQc7jjg0/s320/inbox.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Viewing a Message</span><br />
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</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtQkpM0J8slCSCeMfl7rcIphYo2q_RZpagWbt1TYI6N7ppEQORQJ3midj9Xv-J4nYSZp1j3vXRk2_Awmv95V7WyiTxj1AT6y12e08lsI9UzqutnrQ08jhItttv1iAS1X6c4-EEz9iFQXA/s1600/view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtQkpM0J8slCSCeMfl7rcIphYo2q_RZpagWbt1TYI6N7ppEQORQJ3midj9Xv-J4nYSZp1j3vXRk2_Awmv95V7WyiTxj1AT6y12e08lsI9UzqutnrQ08jhItttv1iAS1X6c4-EEz9iFQXA/s320/view.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Note that the "Reply to E-mail" link is only shown if the sender is in the approved list.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Replying to a Message</span><br />
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</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB6Omps3zvAhnYcMAtQM8sYHGpcp1ZpQboxCAQV2xKqeA5q2effxBg05zzrJLXOCsw0vQ02GbCZE_8cvu1EznndxMz1mlGxj0UOsJi_Pk6TiEnqR7ha4F8Cz8Tnfkbq91j2Fk-H5-aphw/s1600/reply.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB6Omps3zvAhnYcMAtQM8sYHGpcp1ZpQboxCAQV2xKqeA5q2effxBg05zzrJLXOCsw0vQ02GbCZE_8cvu1EznndxMz1mlGxj0UOsJi_Pk6TiEnqR7ha4F8Cz8Tnfkbq91j2Fk-H5-aphw/s320/reply.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
If someone feels crafty and enters the UID of an e-mail from a sender not on the approved list, this page will redirect back to the Inbox.</div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Composing a New Message</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmrINWtm9GkiH3q_FyZGS07dc24PdX7BchXZk85QyIidXwE3pf4yEVGcxWP1XUOZ98XNoqFoBX55ZKtaMxzlsqsozpsAX918QaZ2Daom9t_6FV5GeiXq0iNp_29M9vLM8duh0x1x6aOLI/s1600/compose.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmrINWtm9GkiH3q_FyZGS07dc24PdX7BchXZk85QyIidXwE3pf4yEVGcxWP1XUOZ98XNoqFoBX55ZKtaMxzlsqsozpsAX918QaZ2Daom9t_6FV5GeiXq0iNp_29M9vLM8duh0x1x6aOLI/s320/compose.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
And again note that the To field is a simple drop-down list which only allows the email to be sent to the addresses on the approved list.<br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Sending the Message</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-gob3yFjc10ZqGi8jE94qqmYhdGhRb_KonIglxnUtFKilWDWeIAuUlA0yjUlBJtp0Fe2Ew05Oe75VwaGLENldTDC45n4d2ATIQTOHcJb83-cLJLY1ZGYtt15H9L1nGZEUmN63QMG1FGE/s1600/sent.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-gob3yFjc10ZqGi8jE94qqmYhdGhRb_KonIglxnUtFKilWDWeIAuUlA0yjUlBJtp0Fe2Ew05Oe75VwaGLENldTDC45n4d2ATIQTOHcJb83-cLJLY1ZGYtt15H9L1nGZEUmN63QMG1FGE/s320/sent.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Simple and straightforward right? Here's a brief rundown of the features<br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">Features</span><br />
<ul>
<li>Easy to set up (just need to change the data in the config.php file)</li>
<li>Works with any Gmail account with IMAP enabled</li>
<li>Only allows new emails to be sent to the addresses listed in the config file</li>
<li>Only allows the user to reply to emails sent from the addresses listed in the config file</li>
<li>Supports incoming HTML emails (plain text outgoing messages only)</li>
<li>Appears to the outside world as though the user is using a normal e-mail account** (the only special interface is on the user's side)</li>
<li>Anyone can send them an email, even if they aren't on the list (hopefully this doesn't backfire)</li>
<li>Checks to make sure a message body is entered (forgives an empty subject line)</li>
</ul>
<div>
** Unfortunately I wasn't able to get SMTP sending enabled through my hosting provider, so I had to use the <a href="http://www.php.net/manual/en/function.mail.php" target="_blank">PHP mail()</a> function. This hasn't caused any problems yet, but it could cause outgoing mail to be flagged as spam.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">Code</span></div>
<div>
All you should need to modify is the config.php file, but everything else is fairly easy to tweak if necessary. Please note that I am still modifying the files as I find new problems.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://github.com/jondontdoit/BasicMail" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="91" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjofj3pTU-dTszuUVfyo9FgucnawjtmismG431VUGJFvYaU4ree6sNdi3n9RRadePejxHGuiBrShnXyc35sIHww1mznEXAQsd7CU8FsxmUXcjD1xHw_sZdeevs1vM8h9k9DRJj2vFTCnnw/s320/github.PNG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
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<br />Jon Whttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18020949894713366313noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1971764169677907059.post-78887223711748281442011-11-03T12:56:00.000-04:002016-04-12T13:06:26.543-04:002007 Hyundai Sonata Aux InputI am the proud owner of a 2007 Hyundai Sonata GLS (base model). While I have been very happy with the car in general, one thing that's annoyed me from the start is the lack of an auxiliary input for iPods/MP3 players. I do a lot of long highway trips, and it always seems as though the moment you find a good radio station it starts to fade out. If you've used one of those cigarette lighter FM transmitter thingers, you know that they suck, especially around big cities, and when you're on the road it's near impossible to find a frequency that doesn't get interference along the way.<br />
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<b>Update</b>: See my <a href="http://jondontdoit.blogspot.ca/2016/04/2007-hyundai-sonata-stereo-wiring.html">Stereo Replacement Guide here</a>!<br />
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I'm happy with the stock stereo, and I don't have much money to spend on buying a mod kit and a new stereo, so I decided to figure out a way to wire in an auxiliary input.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>I couldn't find anything online that gave a detailed description of what to do, so I am going to be painfully detailed here, with lots of pictures. I hope it helps everyone who's still looking for a solution to this challenge.<br />
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My first resource was <a href="http://andyehou.blogspot.com/2007/07/hyundai-sonata-stereo-removal.html" target="_blank">this website</a>, which provided a <a href="http://documents.victorytechnologies.com//documents/product/11649.pdf" target="_blank">link to a PDF</a> outlining how to remove the stereo from the dashboard (see page 3). It's pretty straightforward, but I will show you exactly what to do here. [Update: see the link at the bottom of this post for another PDF showing how to remove the stereo]<br />
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Before we begin, I do recommend you read through this whole thing before you start, just so there are no surprises. It will make everything go smoother.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">Part One: Removing the Stereo</span><br />
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Here's the untouched stereo<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOq8WLvmDXxMuNuimIV6ag7YEc7G7eBdh4foaMaC7clE4GgfUiGE6l51LUfXjR-DhkXCm3WwPQ0X1rXG612guJl3p5wVA1T9Xv8Wv7PoHMZUBW1_mVfzJDzfLj90sT-Vs0SDH_k94UETQ/s1600/IMG_0543.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOq8WLvmDXxMuNuimIV6ag7YEc7G7eBdh4foaMaC7clE4GgfUiGE6l51LUfXjR-DhkXCm3WwPQ0X1rXG612guJl3p5wVA1T9Xv8Wv7PoHMZUBW1_mVfzJDzfLj90sT-Vs0SDH_k94UETQ/s320/IMG_0543.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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My trusted tools for the job: screwdriver, flashlight, thin knife, double-sided tape, skewers, and scotch tape. With these tools you can do just about anything.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKyK-ygQh-fXMtLC0ldA_3JA6aQXN6bv64xEQhGNEfn1uqgZ3AjImz6PAm8PbCEfetbav0Mp4XJf-0FH7pz3UG75WxHFdYh0dUhyZXSA6uG8pNoVi6y3r1irOeVT8NSiOpndaiqn2nmtQ/s1600/IMG_0569.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKyK-ygQh-fXMtLC0ldA_3JA6aQXN6bv64xEQhGNEfn1uqgZ3AjImz6PAm8PbCEfetbav0Mp4XJf-0FH7pz3UG75WxHFdYh0dUhyZXSA6uG8pNoVi6y3r1irOeVT8NSiOpndaiqn2nmtQ/s320/IMG_0569.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Before we start, it's important that you disconnect your battery. So pop the hood and disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of your battery. I skipped this step because I'm <strike>experienced with electronics</strike> an idiot but that doesn't mean you should ever cut corners and risk hurting or killing yourself by accidentally causing a short.</div>
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Okay, with that done, pop open the glove box and remove the two screws that hold in the little silver plastic strip. If your screwdriver can't fit in the space, you can make the glovebox drop lower by unhooking those squarish black plastic pieces on each side of the glovebox. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhehuj4_PvMWxShXw8NQLoFWLduQNTgtG9EKEra86Uf92le0BX_4Ag_USyGLmsNQURbm-iB_3XoAfuBiClGPi95_cuR1we-7GP0-0Zc4N-irnhFSTQTWECTI3Q5tLPRHCsqnridfz_hYy4/s1600/IMG_0544.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhehuj4_PvMWxShXw8NQLoFWLduQNTgtG9EKEra86Uf92le0BX_4Ag_USyGLmsNQURbm-iB_3XoAfuBiClGPi95_cuR1we-7GP0-0Zc4N-irnhFSTQTWECTI3Q5tLPRHCsqnridfz_hYy4/s320/IMG_0544.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The first screw.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrYkA4k_MN7qgbEbvKBgnVtJPA36LUm4knFgIwYj5bojykD0_lIEWu1LqMn7tjLXKy258YbOxMuLWpkvuVIY3aTRRExPXtZiHMiqgr60EckoABjuij4RoXEmAC7gtGX64B4_BY-qAag-k/s1600/IMG_0545.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrYkA4k_MN7qgbEbvKBgnVtJPA36LUm4knFgIwYj5bojykD0_lIEWu1LqMn7tjLXKy258YbOxMuLWpkvuVIY3aTRRExPXtZiHMiqgr60EckoABjuij4RoXEmAC7gtGX64B4_BY-qAag-k/s320/IMG_0545.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And the second one.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggm7jsZ9p-7VHA843Ooe1hdMYK_p8XjwCd4jwYVFjFVkwAa3x8ofKajG-KIFrfBuKnkeTbFNQp-HT61oE4jVU1xRcDB6hOmg3tvW0bKh8pwdS5d0ZM8g97zPAplIgR9kMzI4aE0WISVNA/s1600/IMG_0546.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggm7jsZ9p-7VHA843Ooe1hdMYK_p8XjwCd4jwYVFjFVkwAa3x8ofKajG-KIFrfBuKnkeTbFNQp-HT61oE4jVU1xRcDB6hOmg3tvW0bKh8pwdS5d0ZM8g97zPAplIgR9kMzI4aE0WISVNA/s320/IMG_0546.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now this part is a little nerve-wracking (at least it is for me). With even pressure you need to start pulling out that strip, starting on the glove box end. It's attached to the dashboard by numerous small plastic clips that need to pop out.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm18J8yYytf_lRGSbzI5QANA2uvGit9wMkLWiKnw50Wm5w9WE1h3is-hdFA5ik2Q0RKK9coL-szs_vHTWKWeEcj7yRnToq4nhavq3f_Law5X37Ltf_J3XebnBqn5209XU9gndGj0tAUTU/s1600/IMG_0547.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm18J8yYytf_lRGSbzI5QANA2uvGit9wMkLWiKnw50Wm5w9WE1h3is-hdFA5ik2Q0RKK9coL-szs_vHTWKWeEcj7yRnToq4nhavq3f_Law5X37Ltf_J3XebnBqn5209XU9gndGj0tAUTU/s320/IMG_0547.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Keep going until it's pulled out completely, past the stereo, just up to the steering wheel.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZpKypdFM9k30cbhOBkmh_2sBhdLl79QQ_HdQubNSNADTyXBYZQ4ursPXtj5u1W8jlkhxhu1p0Gwmj7JI9VGmkxFhw3oXhyphenhyphenPA-RQTX2iqt7k9EIlVgDQ2JnLDBZt19d0O_DSEslg-qh4A/s1600/IMG_0548.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZpKypdFM9k30cbhOBkmh_2sBhdLl79QQ_HdQubNSNADTyXBYZQ4ursPXtj5u1W8jlkhxhu1p0Gwmj7JI9VGmkxFhw3oXhyphenhyphenPA-RQTX2iqt7k9EIlVgDQ2JnLDBZt19d0O_DSEslg-qh4A/s320/IMG_0548.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now you can see there are these little white plastic clips that clip onto the strip, and into the dashboard. Fun fact about these little clips: they love to pop off the strip sometimes, and fall inside the dashboard. This is without a doubt the most frustrating and emotionally battering part of this process, since you don't want your dashboard to be all wiggly. Again, if you take care to pull the strip off gently you should be okay, but do expect to lose at least one clip.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGGlmyxqPnhbSqSKshla2ob8FLfoxzSJA_ZYYYqvv1uHPSyhAz5g3nIqerefXLPq2rHnQn8IGP_gJqqm6huMNd4RegAvpuPJ5Tc1ondnyPli3oqsoT4I3ZUEKXY4yxefMCqhlm1wGwnUo/s1600/IMG_0549.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGGlmyxqPnhbSqSKshla2ob8FLfoxzSJA_ZYYYqvv1uHPSyhAz5g3nIqerefXLPq2rHnQn8IGP_gJqqm6huMNd4RegAvpuPJ5Tc1ondnyPli3oqsoT4I3ZUEKXY4yxefMCqhlm1wGwnUo/s320/IMG_0549.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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In the above picture you can see that I lost a clip, but luckily I was able to find it with the flashlight after I got the stereo out. That's what the skewers and tapes were for. I constructed a long skewer with some double-sided tape folded over one end (gum doesn't work as well, I've tried).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrS7fdedhnHGcuPp130QkizO3VDk_XQQ9GQnH3ssnVNxtcw18840xwYDCMLEwytfmZMg2jvNPjZ0c0GisJPa3WcmnmIohV2a8EwUgwy5p3j28pdvQ-kjg_upR32pWlywX5aEAW8Xh968Y/s1600/IMG_0566.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrS7fdedhnHGcuPp130QkizO3VDk_XQQ9GQnH3ssnVNxtcw18840xwYDCMLEwytfmZMg2jvNPjZ0c0GisJPa3WcmnmIohV2a8EwUgwy5p3j28pdvQ-kjg_upR32pWlywX5aEAW8Xh968Y/s320/IMG_0566.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Success!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOdLvOZxrcsHTfL2RyRiiFxPQ3C_jxMda9JsXxhwZ6qfeIGszZQXljkqRuwfCoZVQpf7HLwMAINkP3YAUZmD-LZOB16EMDIErg_FUSI0BT4o-2A4WgB2pGU3PstXMNGLiHzfHHz3IdCvs/s1600/IMG_0568.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOdLvOZxrcsHTfL2RyRiiFxPQ3C_jxMda9JsXxhwZ6qfeIGszZQXljkqRuwfCoZVQpf7HLwMAINkP3YAUZmD-LZOB16EMDIErg_FUSI0BT4o-2A4WgB2pGU3PstXMNGLiHzfHHz3IdCvs/s320/IMG_0568.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Back to it. Now that the strip is removed, you need to remove the panels on either side of the stereo. They are each attached with two more of those white clips, and a single screw on the bottom. Remove the screw and gently pry the panel off the dashboard. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJjrjN8zZ0bBScgwGnUHHjrqqWTekaavVCf_xUxUR1BHKGeqh12sMLovMIgm2A6UiRUkqK8QPXB1waHifS1cVvbDJQKDfbK7n97cp18SSlv4UvpO9fjekpr-QCkUO5bqxtH_6vVemxJ7M/s1600/IMG_0550.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJjrjN8zZ0bBScgwGnUHHjrqqWTekaavVCf_xUxUR1BHKGeqh12sMLovMIgm2A6UiRUkqK8QPXB1waHifS1cVvbDJQKDfbK7n97cp18SSlv4UvpO9fjekpr-QCkUO5bqxtH_6vVemxJ7M/s320/IMG_0550.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I lost yet another clip, as you can see here.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRALs_gSmilxarbkkyhTXnt70W-lp8fsnM7ejFs-r8iLntCPrOK3N8ObEDeov1LXPCC-DUhJyNd8YjX7s2xaCMaf68rU9r6DF6urzosBz9UycyIQFMlJjthnRZ-evJCn3Uq75_1Bl6Uz8/s1600/IMG_0553.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRALs_gSmilxarbkkyhTXnt70W-lp8fsnM7ejFs-r8iLntCPrOK3N8ObEDeov1LXPCC-DUhJyNd8YjX7s2xaCMaf68rU9r6DF6urzosBz9UycyIQFMlJjthnRZ-evJCn3Uq75_1Bl6Uz8/s320/IMG_0553.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Repeat with the other panel.<br />
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With the panels pulled forward, you have full access to your stereo.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgnOt5xkMvtmV-N9RYKKoqpS47Xa_wlZMgSeTF1APUImtcytBHkN6V2NGObSvI4CJGwyx5gOfZYNv9wuBTGPZ_AZ7Jf8yePj3QQ3Lire5lO-2Qg9WyKlfoOuG3E9GYOLhY64gC3bgFoR4/s1600/IMG_0552.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgnOt5xkMvtmV-N9RYKKoqpS47Xa_wlZMgSeTF1APUImtcytBHkN6V2NGObSvI4CJGwyx5gOfZYNv9wuBTGPZ_AZ7Jf8yePj3QQ3Lire5lO-2Qg9WyKlfoOuG3E9GYOLhY64gC3bgFoR4/s320/IMG_0552.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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First remove the two screws that attach the darker plastic to the panels (i.e. don't remove that screw in the middle).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9YKMgl4d6XjcFW1y5_h30GVbDD7z5a6t3fAS4ISiEcFLWxPjuc1VGbDBZVDQJUNGWe_OA4O5nt6iFZRTN0A_oqI4QfZPt_avCGrzWOXaU24AH-upF_Mu4LWfv6KBJRHwQt7IXeFxvQJg/s1600/IMG_0554.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9YKMgl4d6XjcFW1y5_h30GVbDD7z5a6t3fAS4ISiEcFLWxPjuc1VGbDBZVDQJUNGWe_OA4O5nt6iFZRTN0A_oqI4QfZPt_avCGrzWOXaU24AH-upF_Mu4LWfv6KBJRHwQt7IXeFxvQJg/s320/IMG_0554.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now remove the two screws on each side of the stereo</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxvU_oFCuAicKMeKYeb5GMbEiUP0XytnEpXehlkontFeZVKVBTwv8fcZvCcngL9dmeN5726jVppENM3Il8b-iErrh_sbSkc58U4SBPTXUxpzxviU6zCe2nTPI_KsDfYkQFcZZx8IHFX8U/s1600/IMG_0555.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxvU_oFCuAicKMeKYeb5GMbEiUP0XytnEpXehlkontFeZVKVBTwv8fcZvCcngL9dmeN5726jVppENM3Il8b-iErrh_sbSkc58U4SBPTXUxpzxviU6zCe2nTPI_KsDfYkQFcZZx8IHFX8U/s320/IMG_0555.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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With that, the stereo should slide forward with ease. It can't come too far out, so get ready to remove the power and speaker connector shown below, as well as the antenna connector.<br />
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The power connector has a little tab at the back which you have to press down before it will come loose. Mine was pretty stiffly in there, so I needed to wiggle it a bit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRbVQQism3gKtIRXS6JdrVr7GCSYxbc9PiOwMFf24d1i4FQKn1kqwIy279ZGDvIp5G1w0cWyiAppZQTQW6abxcqfjRI4LX3zmyn9bBBNS83Luwl8ltXPs9TNJOnSSSXL5gXZ-5Q5-pBEQ/s1600/IMG_0558.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRbVQQism3gKtIRXS6JdrVr7GCSYxbc9PiOwMFf24d1i4FQKn1kqwIy279ZGDvIp5G1w0cWyiAppZQTQW6abxcqfjRI4LX3zmyn9bBBNS83Luwl8ltXPs9TNJOnSSSXL5gXZ-5Q5-pBEQ/s320/IMG_0558.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Next remove the antenna cable. It was also very snug, so I needed to use a bit of force to get it out.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjh4H-ff6QH4jl8OkXDGFE9qV1Kt_HIGUePKLm_QtE46SA9T9Drn4UyAGlJH4aUo3SwW2LxDZFlmTAWt-h5vinwjARah1tiDsSTvUMT_qK_t0yEMuwGxJHrIlBEyFuuBv_7pJ2OgntSuk/s1600/IMG_0559.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjh4H-ff6QH4jl8OkXDGFE9qV1Kt_HIGUePKLm_QtE46SA9T9Drn4UyAGlJH4aUo3SwW2LxDZFlmTAWt-h5vinwjARah1tiDsSTvUMT_qK_t0yEMuwGxJHrIlBEyFuuBv_7pJ2OgntSuk/s320/IMG_0559.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihmWKtW73pjajJ2PCtX-ikG-Ty1b9TtM01WmjgYy0eKcMJnfIN9XHQLaAR-rfBH3hNgPbuctsPERjfhySCWycEJLP05Vh0weVlztAEPnJufxyJSwPQ2mRrYu9akNRqnaSk27zqtkaCcFQ/s1600/IMG_0561.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihmWKtW73pjajJ2PCtX-ikG-Ty1b9TtM01WmjgYy0eKcMJnfIN9XHQLaAR-rfBH3hNgPbuctsPERjfhySCWycEJLP05Vh0weVlztAEPnJufxyJSwPQ2mRrYu9akNRqnaSk27zqtkaCcFQ/s320/IMG_0561.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And there it is. Now you can completely remove the stereo and wave it around wildly (not recommended).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNhmV05Ylfy-k1hxS9uL2r9nTI-jepD32N7N7q-gj_QkHTutWFQ8ASTv1UucgiDiL3tlo5M-E8yqUvV6WcpdWzVlZ0ZqBR-7xt_IJbYXpI7l993DebB5btYqcvQA0U2437S6ea4m70SpE/s1600/IMG_0560.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNhmV05Ylfy-k1hxS9uL2r9nTI-jepD32N7N7q-gj_QkHTutWFQ8ASTv1UucgiDiL3tlo5M-E8yqUvV6WcpdWzVlZ0ZqBR-7xt_IJbYXpI7l993DebB5btYqcvQA0U2437S6ea4m70SpE/s320/IMG_0560.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now your dashboard has character!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh573WrH6e_6y_XCTYllUffZZAIgIcCF8EOQYWIK6TXsTU5e207f3huN7NE6oUWH4MTqcUdB2vruDP7A7gD1mTPjXlW9oFA7KGXKB2tm9wm602VxEs2dFmRQp8MYTO787pdxFsIeaITZOs/s1600/IMG_0562.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh573WrH6e_6y_XCTYllUffZZAIgIcCF8EOQYWIK6TXsTU5e207f3huN7NE6oUWH4MTqcUdB2vruDP7A7gD1mTPjXlW9oFA7KGXKB2tm9wm602VxEs2dFmRQp8MYTO787pdxFsIeaITZOs/s320/IMG_0562.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here are a few pics of the power/speaker connector, for reference. If you are interested in what wires do what, <a href="http://www.modifiedlife.com/2007-hyundai-sonata-car-radio-stereo-wiring-diagram/" target="_blank">this link</a> seems to describe them. [Update: see the link at the bottom of this post for a PDF showing this connector (24P) and its wiring information]<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFs4o_AGAZkAlqTmQh8LFNJEinR4hwAPFnVh9uxG0Xf6PyyoL8mh0MYUzG-Cg7UOdRoSwoxKQPgXAGLIim4xR48sWCVGZ1aIrRD58KinRj2nyvk7wUWmt7lxoekorav0qelS-hyCDbVuI/s1600/IMG_0571.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFs4o_AGAZkAlqTmQh8LFNJEinR4hwAPFnVh9uxG0Xf6PyyoL8mh0MYUzG-Cg7UOdRoSwoxKQPgXAGLIim4xR48sWCVGZ1aIrRD58KinRj2nyvk7wUWmt7lxoekorav0qelS-hyCDbVuI/s320/IMG_0571.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4_R4dlovwX0aoaRftM-xodxy9NdsGEh3hREX4hsQDcy9I1H97tMV5qVWxvzEpiHT6urkEOj32MtIy_zpZnZk5o82xn8y_PE6_9w-J4SI9IO9YjU9IDucbvJoAkD7X_73X7y8unGiXNkc/s1600/IMG_0572.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4_R4dlovwX0aoaRftM-xodxy9NdsGEh3hREX4hsQDcy9I1H97tMV5qVWxvzEpiHT6urkEOj32MtIy_zpZnZk5o82xn8y_PE6_9w-J4SI9IO9YjU9IDucbvJoAkD7X_73X7y8unGiXNkc/s320/IMG_0572.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiWaXCFHdhd9aUE5cthAuhIvWGr9jeLtjLcDJGTG3BrwVLg5hhNsFhMwBdtuc3aiWsayxwYVCmyvrhX60B_66xYndYKOZ4kR8zMJ-K_E3LZ1n-2u3bj8HQvPC7OK4juTPwizYE9dSUkgg/s1600/IMG_0573.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiWaXCFHdhd9aUE5cthAuhIvWGr9jeLtjLcDJGTG3BrwVLg5hhNsFhMwBdtuc3aiWsayxwYVCmyvrhX60B_66xYndYKOZ4kR8zMJ-K_E3LZ1n-2u3bj8HQvPC7OK4juTPwizYE9dSUkgg/s320/IMG_0573.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Finally, I taped a little reminder up so I wouldn't forget where the radio goes.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbXWTW3ZlRYy9KbiggeDkFxbNQAq0YU0_DFpj5g3jjcXFyUH5xTEY2E0adETE7iNZLrkbt8f999oB3ecLvg2OAxbIESwu1OTpoFG04XtK2t_EOUOulX6MIxdi8VgdM46QaXj3Lt9YWwjU/s1600/IMG_0581.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbXWTW3ZlRYy9KbiggeDkFxbNQAq0YU0_DFpj5g3jjcXFyUH5xTEY2E0adETE7iNZLrkbt8f999oB3ecLvg2OAxbIESwu1OTpoFG04XtK2t_EOUOulX6MIxdi8VgdM46QaXj3Lt9YWwjU/s320/IMG_0581.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">Part Two: Taking the Stereo Apart</span></div>
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I wanted to be a cool electrical engineer and figure out a clever way to wire up an auxiliary input into the existing electronics, which naturally requires taking the stereo apart. Spoiler: Nothing came of this so these next few steps are for fun only, you don't need to take the stereo completely apart.</div>
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Just one or two screws held the top panel in place.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrE-yP4LpuFN8YRAPQxxRNHNZcyTGwiXaIQk8TW1WIGvGze01_jYWJ3f2jBlSIdC9MBj5H0xFw7Qn8ZPmS6LCb_NIwf5tEdQCCU4vaBVCRmTlIvqzQ5GX55Y47iFQwOF2VCKMLJbTmQ2s/s1600/IMG_0574.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrE-yP4LpuFN8YRAPQxxRNHNZcyTGwiXaIQk8TW1WIGvGze01_jYWJ3f2jBlSIdC9MBj5H0xFw7Qn8ZPmS6LCb_NIwf5tEdQCCU4vaBVCRmTlIvqzQ5GX55Y47iFQwOF2VCKMLJbTmQ2s/s320/IMG_0574.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Then a couple more screws held the CD unit in place.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWa2wStzAVq1KnIFvcmLtfstmYQwgu0Ijs6xJNhFKVIAFGkGnwteyfAU4L7ZHzqtkiAOjy9JQGk3I5WXDK5-nfQUwoIInTfvigVVBP9adeoIENBZ23G7zi5FFzyetIWRQ8i8qg26Q6660/s1600/IMG_0575.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWa2wStzAVq1KnIFvcmLtfstmYQwgu0Ijs6xJNhFKVIAFGkGnwteyfAU4L7ZHzqtkiAOjy9JQGk3I5WXDK5-nfQUwoIInTfvigVVBP9adeoIENBZ23G7zi5FFzyetIWRQ8i8qg26Q6660/s320/IMG_0575.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I had to remove a couple of screws on the outside of the stereo for the CD unit to come out.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6W0w4oOMdkWia8VlsqkDHO3EAuvuuJ4E7VddRmLRfxXaA4y0Xu7d01ikdxnLg51_2oMF9WX0shhobHwFubQHjbdawNhkCCjWTsQl1Y9d5Ukkf-viCaWOQXxh-v-ngYLjyUNuqLplO97A/s1600/IMG_0576.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6W0w4oOMdkWia8VlsqkDHO3EAuvuuJ4E7VddRmLRfxXaA4y0Xu7d01ikdxnLg51_2oMF9WX0shhobHwFubQHjbdawNhkCCjWTsQl1Y9d5Ukkf-viCaWOQXxh-v-ngYLjyUNuqLplO97A/s320/IMG_0576.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The cable that connects the CD unit to the main board just pulls out.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU9P5GKreCGfOSduygQFDVfc2ZfaIc4HDx5T8eDbeouQX06I1VbDVrxAo-YrJYba5bgCLmTQXScgNflKTYX16gIg-MOcksrNYhFEd3HjFK2Ce4PXDuNyXmCKzu1eyUpOP-gOcAoJOaXsk/s1600/IMG_0577.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU9P5GKreCGfOSduygQFDVfc2ZfaIc4HDx5T8eDbeouQX06I1VbDVrxAo-YrJYba5bgCLmTQXScgNflKTYX16gIg-MOcksrNYhFEd3HjFK2Ce4PXDuNyXmCKzu1eyUpOP-gOcAoJOaXsk/s320/IMG_0577.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Leaving us with... some electronics stuff!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF06ohfmTm86rsnJsoYAglhWkqM7FKqWzCDPH5o_lEbLwTNQMWo8GrmiHaInpLdtjisXBhbcGVGAXUYxMJa3ZPiDUjgijx9APv-1UWb5QBL8i5vIfhgxyvFm9PTNgjtxHFNpjPV1jFTCM/s1600/IMG_0578.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF06ohfmTm86rsnJsoYAglhWkqM7FKqWzCDPH5o_lEbLwTNQMWo8GrmiHaInpLdtjisXBhbcGVGAXUYxMJa3ZPiDUjgijx9APv-1UWb5QBL8i5vIfhgxyvFm9PTNgjtxHFNpjPV1jFTCM/s320/IMG_0578.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Essentially the system is made up of a microcontroller (which handles the LCD screen, buttons, functions, etc.) a DSP (which handles the audio processing), and a pre-amplifier system to power the speakers. While I maybe could have gotten something working eventually, it would involve hijacking the DSP or the audio output from the DSP to the pre-amp. I figured either method risks breaking the stereo circuitry or potentially providing a crackly audio signal neither of which I was prepared to deal with. So I chickened out and bought a cheap inline <a href="http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/product/connect-pro-connectpro-universal-ipod-auxilary-input-cable-cp50-cp50/10159919.aspx?lang=en-CA&pcname=&sku=10159919&path=c675c81fa6d78a2de79e729afbd7339aen02&category=10656&StoreId=62" target="_blank">FM modulator from FutureShop</a>. You might be able to get better quality ones for a bit more money, but my intent was to do this as cheaply as possible.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4o2G6EGhOcL6whfoJb6-d-vvqnMAhNboNqwhl6w55-FV4-_t1msRjif4A0JWeKJN8oPysS56P4h4FGeazQrwAqNe0uiOfE_8yX6E2mPLnOLRZjUhyfYHp4ObV_FgnuAK1IlKrU4BWO-c/s1600/IMG_0579.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4o2G6EGhOcL6whfoJb6-d-vvqnMAhNboNqwhl6w55-FV4-_t1msRjif4A0JWeKJN8oPysS56P4h4FGeazQrwAqNe0uiOfE_8yX6E2mPLnOLRZjUhyfYHp4ObV_FgnuAK1IlKrU4BWO-c/s320/IMG_0579.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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How am does work: Basically this solution sits inline with your FM antenna. The unit is set to a specific radio station, and when you turn it on the unit attenuates all radio frequencies surrounding that pre-set station and modulates its own FM signal at that frequency. It's the same idea as those cheap FM transmitters you can buy, however this solution won't experience the same interference from outside stations.</div>
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It's not an ideal solution as FM audio bandwidth is limited, and there are always losses involved with encoding and immediately decoding and filtering an FM radio signal. But it honestly isn't that bad.</div>
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Taking it out of the packaging and pulling it all apart we can see that its connections are an antenna input and output, as well as a pair of wires for power. They feed off the same ~12VDC supply the radio gets from the battery.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicBBMIscNVqiry1f2F58emtDAnVejLKgtefoaVmRm7tVOrMjCjNHjy7yhoM-mw_74U3rgJLVkjlbSPYDRBmKJE5wsBrWR9-HucT-n2B5Ui5CzF4q6lxBU-PDzIMBvEWZGkEmih0-Rg5PA/s1600/IMG_0580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicBBMIscNVqiry1f2F58emtDAnVejLKgtefoaVmRm7tVOrMjCjNHjy7yhoM-mw_74U3rgJLVkjlbSPYDRBmKJE5wsBrWR9-HucT-n2B5Ui5CzF4q6lxBU-PDzIMBvEWZGkEmih0-Rg5PA/s320/IMG_0580.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Since the Sonata doesn't provide a spare power connection behind the dash, I had to wire up the power on my own. Finally, an opportunity to prove my electrical skills! The ground wire I just mechanically fastened to the enclosure with a nut and bolt, and the power line I soldered to the back of the protection diode beside the connector. This connected me to the constant power line which I thought was most appropriate. To do this, you might want to just strip back the power wire near the connector instead of taking the stereo apart.</div>
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In hindsight, I should have wired the +12V line to the striped Orange/Black <i>switched</i> power line. That way, the FM modulator box could only be turned on when the car is started or the key is in the accessories position. The way it is now, this unit can be turned on at any time, which means that if I forget to turn it off before I leave the car, it will drain the battery. I can live with that, so I'm not about to take everything apart again, but I wouldn't wire it up the same way if I ever had to do it again.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6-wEbSv2uemw6Cwg61IEvshufXd13Xnv7ugcF-8YuBnEt1HpTnibSVSHd7SRkCvWWjF0kkiFIeAjL3TUvRS-bZfsZeiuxXAsxhbU-1WL-Ytk09nDAdXOvgRrt8ixw2VSCuJIRohFPtjU/s1600/IMG_0586.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6-wEbSv2uemw6Cwg61IEvshufXd13Xnv7ugcF-8YuBnEt1HpTnibSVSHd7SRkCvWWjF0kkiFIeAjL3TUvRS-bZfsZeiuxXAsxhbU-1WL-Ytk09nDAdXOvgRrt8ixw2VSCuJIRohFPtjU/s320/IMG_0586.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">Part Three: Putting Back the Pieces</span></div>
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With accessible power wires, we're ready to put everything back together again. Just to be sure, I hooked up the transmitter to the stereo without putting everything in place, just to make sure it all worked.</div>
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It did work, which is usually a good sign that it works.</div>
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While there was a part of me that just wanted to leave it like this, I decided it would be best if I finished the job.<br />
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I ran the wires from the box through a hole behind the glove compartment. I wanted to leave the box accessible in case I needed to change the default radio station at some point.<br />
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The wires don't seem to get pinched at all if they're bundled and fed through this hole.<br />
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I stuck the control unit near the light inside the glove box. I really wanted to somehow feed this through to the dashboard near the radio, but it wasn't looking like an easy job.</div>
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With everything tidied up, I did one final test before putting all the screws in, and reattaching the strip to the dashboard. </div>
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All was good, and a headphone cable can slip out of the top of the glove compartment without getting pinched badly.</div>
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Everything looks as good as before, and it even still works! I'd call that a success.</div>
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I hope this guide was helpful and informative! While I know this isn't the ideal solution to the problem, I do think it's the cheapest most practical solution for this car. I've been using the AUX input with my iPod for a month or so now, and I have to say it's pretty good. I'm not blown away by the audio quality, but I'm definitely happy enough with it.</div>
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<b>Update:</b> Thanks Mike for supplying <a href="http://www.mediafire.com/?iyj717s3f2ug3ex" target="_blank">these PDFs</a> outlining how to remove the stereo and the connector wiring!</div>
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<br />Jon Whttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18020949894713366313noreply@blogger.com31tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1971764169677907059.post-59965071653864372322011-11-01T15:20:00.000-04:002016-11-12T22:36:45.545-05:00Bluetooth Mate TutorialThis setup guide is intended for people who have bought a SparkFun <a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9358" target="_blank">Bluetooth Mate</a> and are looking to quickly get it working with their Arduino.<br />
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The Bluetooth Mate is really easy to use, but you have to know exactly how to configure Windows for it to work properly. Hopefully this quick guide will have you up and running in a few minutes, and will spare you from hours of wondering why you can't get the little green light to come on.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>I am using:<br />
<ul>
<li>Bluetooth Mate <a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9358" target="_blank">(link)</a></li>
<li>3.3V FTDI USB programmer <a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8772" target="_blank">(link)</a></li>
<li>Arduino Pro Mini 3.3V <a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9220" target="_blank">(link)</a></li>
<li>Bluetooth USB dongle <a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9434" target="_blank">(link)</a></li>
</ul>
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<b>WARNING!</b><br />
I initially only bought the Arduino and the Bluetooth Mate, thinking that I could program the Arduino over bluetooth. I have not had any success making this work, so I don't think it's possible. Buy the FTDI USB breakout board too, since it's inexpensive and guaranteed to work without any hassle.<br />
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<h2>
Connecting the Modules</h2>
The Arduino Pro Mini and the Bluetooth Mate are perfectly matched for each other. You can connect them directly to each other like so:<br />
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I chose to mount them on top of each other, using a right angle header like this:<br />
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<h2>
Setting up the Arduino</h2>
Before you get started with Bluetooth, you should set up the Arduino board to send something over the serial line, so you can make sure it's working. I made this quick program to test out send/receive:<br />
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<script src="https://gist.github.com/jondontdoit/03d62bb9a12f394ef12fad78fd99d32d.js"></script>
Note that the serial speed is set to <b>115200</b>, which is the default speed of the Bluetooth Mate.<br />
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This program spits out an increasing counter value on the serial line. It also accepts input from the user, in the form of typing the character 'R' which will reset this counter.<br />
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Program your Arduino board with this code, and make sure it's working over USB with the Serial Monitor (don't forget to set the serial monitor to 115200 as well!).<br />
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<h2>
Setting up Bluetooth</h2>
I primarily use Windows 7, and have had no problems. These steps should be very similar for Windows XP. I haven't been able to get it running with a mac yet, but if I do I will post instructions on that too. I assume that you have already installed the Bluetooth Dongle (it should auto-install once you plug it in). Also make sure the Bluetooth Mate is connected to the Arduino and is powered (it should be flashing the red LED every second or so).<br />
<h3 style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-top: 1.5em;">
Step 1: Open the Bluetooth Menu on the Taskbar</h3>
Right click on the Bluetooth icon and click on Show Bluetooth Devices.<br />
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<h3>
Step 2: Click Add a Device</h3>
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<h3 style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-top: 1.5em;">
Step 3: Windows will discover the device</h3>
The device should appear as "FireFly-_____". Select the device and click Next. If the device does not show up, make sure it's powered and close to the Bluetooth dongle.<br />
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<h3 style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-top: 1.5em;">
Step 4: Pair the device</h3>
The next window will ask how you want to pair the device. <b>It is critical</b> that you choose to pair without a passkey. This is where I messed up, and it took me a while to figure out what to do.<br />
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<h3 style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-top: 1.5em;">
Step 5: Success! (hopefully)</h3>
The device should be paired successfully! Click the Close button to continue.<br />
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<h3 style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-top: 1.5em;">
Step 6: Open Device Manager</h3>
Expand the Ports section. You want to see which port names have been assigned to the device. Take note of the first one of the two (in my case it's COM10). We use this in the next section.<br />
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<h2>
Sending/Receiving Serial Data</h2>
I used a program called <a href="http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/download.html" target="_blank">PuTTY</a> because it's simple and free. Here is how I set it up:<br />
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I saved this information as "Bluetooth Mate" on the Session screen for easy access later. Click on the open button.<br />
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Windows may ask you for a pairing code at this point, as it connects to the device for the first time. If so, enter "1234" without the quotes and it will pair.<br />
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Now with any luck this screen will pop up, and you will see your code displaying in all its glory:<br />
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You're done! Try typing R to reset and verify the code is working correctly (if not, who cares, you're on to bigger and better things now anyway).<br />
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Happy developing!Jon Whttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18020949894713366313noreply@blogger.com32tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1971764169677907059.post-33194577669170117242011-08-21T21:40:00.000-04:002011-11-01T15:21:13.982-04:00Running AmokIt's my first blag parst!<br />
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If you ever live in fear of your significant other, knowing the moment they step in the door the yelling and the screeching and the jabbing will start and knowing you'll just wind up locked in the broom closet again for a week, living off leeks and whatever insects crawl in through your filth, then read on! What better way to diffuse an angry situation then by playing fight music as soon as they (or anyone) comes in the door. No one can actually fight while fight music is playing! I decided to give it a try.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">Step 1</span><br />
You need a way to play the music. I have an old MP3 player and a spare set of speakers, so this seemed a logical choice. My plan was to tack some flywires to the play button (which conveniently acts as the on and off button too) and thus control the device through a microcontroller. So I pulled the MP3 player apart.<br />
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Unfortunately, after lots of probing and prodding, there seemed to be no accessible soldering points for flywires. It also seemed like the folks who made the MP3 player had to do a little bit of post-PCB-design rework. I don't envy the poor souls who had to attach that red wire by hand on so many millions of units.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Plan B</span><br />
Use the button mechanically. Why not right? Fortunately I have a few servos kicking around, and I spent a bunch of time back in the day making nice Arduino code to use them. After some hacking at the code, and some good old fashioned MacGyvering, the deed was done.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">Step 2</span><br />
Now that the MP3 player can be activated, it's time to figure out the switching mechanism. I used a simple reed relay and magnet. When the magnet is near the switch, it's closed. When it moves farther away, it opens. So I taped the magnet to the door and the relay switch to the door frame with blinding precision.<br />
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To connect this switch to the microcontroller, I needed a long wire with two lines in it. My MacGyver senses tingled once more and I turned to my trusty pal Mr. Component Cable.<br />
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Just jam some gator clips onto the contacts and you're good to go! Here's what it looked like on the other end, all hooked up.<br />
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I used a 1Kohm resistor between Vdd and one terminal of the switch and the microcontroller input, and I connected the other end of the switch to ground. So when the reed is closed (and the door is closed), the microcontroller sees ground, and when it's open the microcontroller sees ˜Vdd.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">Step 3</span><br />
Deploy! Plug it all in and lie in wait.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/1ql6GF4Zlyo?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">In Conclusion</span><br />
I really need to get a job.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">Links</span><br />
<a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8642">http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8642</a><br />
<a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8643">http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8643</a><br />
<a href="http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Button">http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Button</a><br />
[Code link coming soon!]<br />
<br />Jon Whttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18020949894713366313noreply@blogger.com2